Singu Chuli is the mountain formerly known
as Fluted peak. A few days after, enjoying that view of “ Fluters”,
wilf Noyce and David Cox went on to make the first ascent of this
attractive and difficult mountain by its North-East Face and the
top section of the East Ridge. Despite the relative ease of access
to the Sanctuary this mountain has proven too difficult for most
commercial climbing groups who have tended to concentrate their
efforts on Tent Peak.
As you approach the Sanctuary and reach the simple lodges at
Machha-puchhare base camp little can be seen of the mountain,
which is toward the head of the valley, cradling the West
Annapurna Glacier .It is the first summit on the long ridge thrown
down from Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), which separates the South and
West Annapurna Glaciers.
The approach to the first ascent route follows a shelf and a
trough above the west bank of the West Annapurna Glacier, skirting
round the base of the mountain’s rocky east ridge to gain the foot
of the North-East Face, which is unseen, even from the moraines
above the lodges.
Perhaps the best distant view of the mountain is from Annapurna
South base camp. From the moraines above the lodges the fluted
South Face presents a ‘beautiful shape, buttressed by
pencil-shadowy ridges of snow and ice’ well seen, rising above the
ridge connecting it with Tharpu Chuli.
To date, apart from the original route, most efforts to climb the
mountain have concentrated on the face and ridges seen from this
viewpoint. The South-West Ridge, the one that ultimately connects
to Tent Peak, is an obvious, albeit corniced, line although a far
more complicated connecting ridge than at first at first it
appears. The terrain between the two peaks is quite confused and
not at all a straightforward ridge. The fluted face to the right
of the ridge, although menaced in places by ice bulges and seracs
is set at a reasonable angle and appears an attractive
proposition. However, despite rumours that routes have been made
on these, no route descriptions have been made available and the
NMA have no record of ascents.
Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain
scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the world.
We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the small town
of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a six-day trek,
with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us healthy at our
ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal’s most pristine
Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests, past beautiful
alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera Glacier where
we’ll establish base camp. We’ll set up two more high camps, the
first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the second
after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800 m. From here it is
a steady and steep climb to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring
views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse
to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to the west. |